What first brought you in to the world of watches?
The story began when I was six. My grand-father gave me my first watch and I was fascinated by the mechanism inside it. On the one side was written the word ‘unbreakable’, and that just captured my imagination. From the moment I first looked at it, I knew my fate would be in watchmaking and in designing my own unique pieces.
But your father made shoes. Do you see any similarities between a cobbler and making watches?
My father loved his job, and people loved him doing his job. He was the most popular cobbler in town. He has always been an example to me, and he was very proud when I said I wanted to get in to watchmaking. He wanted me to do something that I wanted to do, so he wasn’t surprised when I announced to him that I intended to enrol in watchmaking school. But there are similarities between both trades. My father always said it was in the quest of perfection and customer satisfaction. Even now, I focus on creating new, pioneering products in order to exceed my customers’ expectations.
So you didn’t want to make shoes?
If I wasn’t making watches I probably would have followed in my father’s footsteps. I would have opened up my own shoe shop, but I would be making and selling totally unique shoes.
It takes a certain state of mind you put your own name on a watch. It somehow makes it more personal. You can’t hide behind a brand name. How were you confident enough to do that?
That idea came from my watchmaking studies. I started restoring watches for auction houses and collectors from around the world. It did not take long before I had a bit of a reputation, as people wanted me, and me alone, to work on their watches. At that point I started creating timepieces under my own name. It was always a clear decision to me, as I have always wanted to create things that are personal to me.
Franck Muller has a very recognisable watch design. The length, width and curved face. What led you to that design?
I wanted to make a complicated watch with totally new contours, a completely new shape. We had to devise a completely new watch case for this. In our research, we found a single spherical point at which all three axes of a watch’s curves had to meet. We made calculations based on, among many other things, the perfect balance. This is what informed the three-dimensional watch case design that has become a characteristic of the brand. It is the curvature at the three, six and nine o’clock positions that make it possible to produce these sorts of watches, and requires our own special machines. Everything, from the watch case to the sapphire screen, needs to be specially produced by us to fit the movement within.
So where does the creative process start? Where do you get your inspiration?
My everyday life is the source of inspiration for most pieces. For example, the Crazy Hours collection came to me while I was vacationing in a magnificent resort in Mauritius. But the resort had all these crazy rules, and activities at certain times. I hate rules, and so I made a watch that abides by none.
The entire watch industry seems to be moving towards ultra-complicated watches. Hero timepieces, if you like. Is it the same at Franck Muller?
We have always preferred mechanical watches that stand out with innovative complications. So for us I would say we’re not so much moving, but doing what we have always done. It is our independent production process that allows us to develop unique complications, but we can also make bespoke pieces as well. Currently, we have the largest tourbillon in the world – the Giga tourbillon – and the smallest – the Lady.
Generally, watches tend to be either classical or contemporary. But Franck Muller kind of does both…
For us it’s all about presenting classical pieces in a contemporary way. This year we’ve focussed on complications, varying aesthetics and new materials. The Vanguard Krypton for example, combines carbon and luminova particles. However the Backswing watch – which as its name suggests is dedicated to golf – has a built-in swing counter. However, both are done with our classic design in mind.
If you were to wear a watch other than a Franck Muller, what would it be?
I don’t think I would be able to, to be honest. I think even if I were not wearing a Frank Muller watch, I would have made another type of watch myself, with a different design.
The brand just celebrated its 25th anniversary. Congratulations.
What’s more impressive is that we have managed to keep our title of Master of Complications, by creating pieces that no one has ever seen before. Although, while the brand was created in 1991 we didn’t introduce our first collection until a year after that. So I would say for me that Franck Muller is only 24-years old.
Did you make any mistakes in that time? Do you have any regrets?
Mistakes are part of being human, so I don’t regret any of the experience or choices I’ve made. I am actually quite positive, especially about bad experiences. I think they make me stronger. They make the brand stronger.