You can’t talk about Cipriani without mentioning Harry’s Bar in Venice, correct?
Yes, that’s where our story begins. It starts with an act of trust and generosity among two human beings. In 1929, Harry Pickering, a decedent of a wealthy Boston family, came to Venice with his aunt, a friend and his little dog. Pickering stayed at the Europa Hotel for two months, and spent most of that time in the bar. My grandfather worked at that bar. Pickering ended up having an argument with his rich Aunt, who promptly left him alone and broke in Venice. It was then that my grandfather offered to help him, lending Pickering some money. Many months later, Harry Pickering returned to Venice and repaid his debt five times over. He gave my grandfather enough money to open up the bar he always dreamt about, which he opened in 1931. He named it after the man who made it all possible, hence the name Harry’s Bar.
What made it so culturally significant?
Harry’s Bar was always a meeting place for all different kinds of characters. Writers, aristocrats, actors, people who all seemed to love the simplicity of warm service and good Italian food. As my father likes to say, “It is a room that witnessed decades of history”. In actual fact, it survived World War II and the liberation, and in 2001 was declared a national landmark by the Italian Ministry of Culture.
But it wasn’t just the people that made Harry’s famous. It’s responsible for a few classics.
Yes, the Bellini and the carpaccio. Both were born at Harry’s Bar. Now, they are known internationally, but not necessarily faithful to their origins. The Bellini, a simple mixture of white peach puree and Prosecco, was invented by my grandfather who admired the sweetness of white peaches. It was named Bellini after the fifteenth-century painter Giovanni Bellini, and the pink hue that embodies his paintings. The Carpaccio was actually the result of a strict dietary requirement of Countess Nani Mocenigo, a regular at Harry’s Bar. Her doctor put her on a strict diet of only raw meat, and so my grandfather covered a plate with the thinnest possible slices of raw beef. Once again, a Renaissance painter inspired the name. But many other great Venetian dishes like “Fegato alla Veneziana” or “Seppioline in tecia” and “risotto” were perfected at Harry’s Bar over the years.
And it’s still a family business?
It is a four generation family business, and currently there are three generations actively working together today. But happily, we are a good family. We respect each other’s points of view, and give each other space if need be. It wouldn’t be possible otherwise.
You’ve mentioned before that the key to Italian cuisine is simplicity – good products, simple recipes. In a place like Dubai where it’s nearly impossible to source these products, especially over the summer months, how do you expect to replicate these flavours?
I think we can do it. The export of great Italian and Mediterranean products to the UAE is already big, and growing even bigger. We also adapt our menu choices, so we use the best possible products available on the local market.
The new Cipriani restaurant is in Dubai’s International Financial District. Why put it there?
DIFC is the home of business, culture and entertainment. It seemed like the perfect location to cater to both local and international tastes. It’s also great to be in the company for many wonderful restaurants.
But does Cipriani, with such ties to simplicity and to Italian culture, fit with Dubai?
I believe it does. Ultimately, Cipriani has always been quite eclectic as far as our customers are concerned. We have many locations around the world, and it has always appealed to many demanding international clientele. Dubai seems to have an abundance of those people, don’t you think?
Cipriani Dubai has just opened its doors in DIFC. For more information, head to cipriani.com
