Perfume is more than just a finishing touch to an outfit – it’s a statement, a memory in liquid form, and for centuries, it’s been the silent, sensory key to personal expression. But why stop at one scent when you can weave a tapestry of fragrances that tell a richer, more complex story? Enter the world of perfume layering, a centuries-old tradition born in the Middle East, where fragrances have long been as integral to life as food and art.
In a world where individualism reigns, this ancient practice has found new life, not just as a trend but as an essential part of modern luxury. With the global perfume industry taking notes from Middle Eastern traditions, perfume layering is no longer just an art form – it’s a revolution in the way we wear and experience scent. And as you’ll see, it’s here to stay.
The fragrant origins of perfume layering
Perfume has long been synonymous with luxury and personal expression. But while a signature scent can be alluring, there’s a deeper tradition that elevates the art of fragrance to another level –perfume layering. This practice, which originated in the Middle East, involves combining different scents to create a personalised fragrance that is both complex and unique. It’s more than just a beauty ritual; perfume layering is a way of telling a story through scent, passed down through generations. In 2024, it’s not only a trend but a powerful force driving the global perfume industry.
The roots of perfume layering are found in ancient civilisations such as Egypt and Persia, where aromatic oils, spices, and resins were essential to both spiritual and everyday life. In the Middle East, perfumery has been intricately linked to culture, with oud, amber, and musk playing prominent roles in rituals and personal grooming. “Fragrance is part of the culture in the Middle East. It goes way deeper than in any other region in the world,” explains Fanny Bal, the French perfumer behind Christian Louboutin’s Middle Eastern collection.
A modern renaissance in the Middle East
The modern perfume industry in the Middle East is flourishing, with the region projected to generate $5.4bn in revenue by the end of the decade, driven by the growing demand for luxury scents and the region’s strong cultural connection to perfume. Middle Eastern consumers continue to favour rich, traditional scents such as oud and musk, but the popularity of perfume layering has brought new complexity to the market.
Brands such as KAYALI, launched by Mona Kattan, have embraced the practice of layering fragrances. Kattan emphasises how layering allows individuals to create unique, personal scents: “The whole brand is about layering and creating your own mixture,” Kattan explains. She elaborated on how this concept allows consumers to take control of their fragrance, blending and matching notes to suit their moods and preference.
“When I first presented the idea of layering your fragrances, having a wardrobe of fragrances in your home, all the retailers laughed at me. People buy one fragrance on average per year – in terms of high-volume frequency it was very low before Covid. That’s why the brand was really struggling to take off initially. People didn’t really understand my mission is to make you feel your best self and to create your mood through the power of fragrance,” says Kattan, adding: “They challenged it, they said I was very ambitious to think I could get people to buy more than one fragrance a year. I didn’t think it was a bad idea.”
Since its launch in 2018, KAYALI has been growing at 100 percent annually and is now available in 1,750 stores across 30 countries on four continents. By the end of the year, it will expand to 2,715 stores. It is already one of the top ten fragrance brands in Sephora US, is making a significant impact in Europe, and is set to enter the Chinese market for the first time. Additionally, KAYALI introduced 10 new fragrances between 2022 and 2023, and is now on its 21st fragrance. The perfumes are manufactured in France and shipped worldwide.
Why perfume layering matters
Perfume layering is not just about mixing scents – it’s about crafting a sensory experience that evolves throughout the day. “For Middle Eastern consumers, rose, oud, musks, amber, and saffron are some of the prevalent ingredients,” says Dao Nguyen, founder of Essenzia ByDao, a boutique strategic marketing agency dedicated to fragrance and beauty. In the Middle East, these notes are commonly layered to create a fragrance that is rich, multidimensional, and deeply personal.
The appeal of perfume layering lies in its versatility and the level of personalisation it allows. In a world where consumers increasingly seek bespoke products, layering offers an opportunity to design a scent that is uniquely their own. According to Thomas James, Chief Brands Officer for Niche Brands at Puig: “In the Middle East, you can go deeper in terms of intensity and the choice of ingredients. Unlike in Europe or America, where consumers prefer fruity or floral scents, we were able to explore stronger notes that we wouldn’t typically use for the European market.”
The global influence of Middle Eastern scent traditions
As perfume layering gains traction globally, luxury brands have started to take note. Christian Louboutin, Frederic Malle, and Diptyque have all launched fragrances specifically designed for layering, often inspired by Middle Eastern traditions. Louboutin’s Loubiprince, for example, is a rich amber woody fragrance crafted with oud, papyrus, and sandalwood – key ingredients that are deeply ingrained in Middle Eastern perfumery.
The rise of niche fragrance brands in the Middle East has also contributed to the popularity of layering. Local brands such as Ajmal Perfumes and Arabian Oud continue to thrive, with their focus on high-quality ingredients and rich, long-lasting scents. These brands have become global ambassadors of Middle Eastern perfumery, spreading the art of layering across the world. “Creating fragrances that are well thought-of and different… will easily promote these brands as consumers nowadays are moving more towards unique, localised brands,” says Ali Al Owais, founder of 1Hundred Perfumes.
The future of perfume layering
The art of perfume layering is here to stay. As consumers continue to seek out luxury, customisation, and products that allow for personal expression, perfume layering will remain at the heart of the Middle Eastern fragrance industry. The trend has not only redefined how perfumes are worn but also how they are created, with brands increasingly focusing on modular fragrances designed to be layered.
For Middle Eastern consumers, perfume layering is not just a trend – it’s a continuation of an ancient tradition, a way of life that reflects the rich cultural heritage of the region. As Fanny Bal aptly puts it: “Fragrance is part of the culture in the Middle East… It goes way deeper than in any other region in the world.”
The future of perfume layering is bright, and as the global fragrance industry looks to the Middle East for inspiration, this centuries-old practice will continue to shape the way we experience scent – one layer at a time.